Quest

Hard to say bud, for we simply do not know how/what lies behind the walls, how easy the job to be done (i.e. pulling new wires, removing old walls and install new drywalls, any moisture damage or rodent damage to the original walls and studs behind it, etc.)

Also: additional concerns such as whether it has asbestos (requires abatement company to do an estimates), or lead paint (again, check various abatement companies profile and see if they can do them in 1 shot), etc.

In other words: these are all hidden "unknown" that can impact the overall reno cost just to bring the house (interior of course) up to code.

He must be patient and prepare to spend some time getting various estimates, etc.

Those are the things I cannot tell you (estimates will be off no matter how much we try)


Q.

TurboDoe

I asked my friend and he said Those electric outlets are 3 prongs.

Quest

make sure he or his electrician pull off the outlet cover and check (as many of them as possible) to see if the wiring are 3-wire type (2 insulated + ground). For I've seen some of these houses, their electrician actually "cheated" by installing standard 3-prong outlets while the house still has 2 wire (no ground) wiring all the way to the fuse panel (you heard right, fuse panel!)

Wait til the insurance guy find out about this by then it would be too late.

Q.

TurboDoe

My friend said those outlets have 3 prongs.

TurboDoe

I see. Thx Quest.

TurboDoe

Some reno ppl said as long as you dont add new electric outlets in the house, then there is no need to upgrade the electric system. Is that right?

Quest

IMHO not really, citing that (1) those old panels for 60 amps (assuming not upgraded for 50+yrs now), chance are: they may still be on round glass fuse type, which is not up to code, but illegal:


http://www.wattageelectric.com/e ... to-circuit-breakers

The one on the right is the legit type that should be in this house, regardless of how he looks at it.
(2) Unless everything gets thoroughly checked and re-certified by a licensed, certified electrician (with proper wiring (with grounds) and 100amps+ breaker panels installed), otherwise: given the elevated electricity consumption in modern day homes (waaaay more than what it used to be half a century ago, which mainly comprised of radio, cooking range, filament lightbulbs, etc. and not many houses come with TeeVee set to begin with). Back in those days: an electrical washer and/or an electrical fridge are the only major electrical appliances one typically had back in those days (and not even electrical clothes dryer in site unless you are rich and have big fuse panels built in to the house to begin with).

Once again: like I never said enough: buying a 50+ yrs old house to do reno is a very costly affair (IMHO, based on the experiences I accumulated so far); for most of the house needs to be upgraded and that can easily cost an additional 100k (if you want everything to be done to bring all things up to code, such as plumbing, all electricals, wall insulation, abestos abatement, lead paint removal (abatement),  re drywalling, etc.)

rigid copper tubing in GVRD typically lasts around 35 yrs and will "thin" out over the decades, and will burst given any elevated water mains pressure. I would seize the opportunity and upgrade them all to PEX. Drainage piping are typically clay-pipes which will require replacement with PVC type, etc. and the list goes on and on....

You skimp on any of these work at this golden opportunity, it will come back to haunt you big $$$$$$$ time afterwards.

remember Murphy's law.

Q.