Sightings of the "Big Five" animals (elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards, African cape buffalo) remain elusive until our next drive, shortly after sunrise. First, we watch a family of elephants munching grass around a solitary acacia tree. Then we see a white rhino hiding in a grove and a more elusive black rhino lingering by the road.
The most amazing moment of the trip--the memory that makes travelling across the world and popping malaria pills like Chiclets worthwhile--is our encounter with a pride of lions, only a few feet from the road, noshing on a Maasai cow.
It plays out less like a nature documentary, and more like a sitcom. The gruff papa lion, a majestic Ralph Kramden, eats first while the long-suffering mama, who prepared the meal by initiating the kill, watches from the sideline. When the lioness tries to take her share, the unappreciative male lion snaps at her.
And, then, growing tired of the gawking tourists and their clicking zoom lenses, he drags the carcass in his mouth into a shrub where his trouble-making, tow-headed cubs scamper about. Later in the afternoon, after running into hyenas and hippo, we return to the scene of the feeding. The groggy papa lion sits by the shrub with a smear of blood on his mouth like lipstick. Inside the shrub, a cub suckles on the teat of its mama lion. Another lioness takes interest in one of the surrounding safari vans circling the van before sitting in its shade.
Of course, the source of our safari highlight happens because the lion makes an unauthorized withdrawal from a Maasai warrior's bank account. In spite of the ban against killing game and efforts to compensate cattle eaten by lions, the Maasai, who steadfastly hold onto frowned-on cultural practices like female circumcision, are still the lion's chief threat.
Soit, who owns 20 head of cattle, says he once killed a lion that ate three of his cows. He shows me the sword and spear he used, before taking me along a path where he keeps the forearm bone of a large feline. "The Maasai are very connected with wild animals," Soit insists as he leads me back to the reception area of the plushy resort. "We are all survivors. The lions are our friends. But when a lion attacks a cow, we have to fight."

There are all types of animals to see on an African safari, but lions are among the most popular for visitors
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Lions chow down on a cow, a symbol of wealth and security for the Maasai people of Kenya |