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[其他飲食] Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards 2007

Restaurant of the Year: West

CATEGORY WINNERS:

West
2881 Granville St., South Granville
604-738-8938

Lumière
2551 W. Broadway, Kitsilano
604-739-8185

Blue Water Cafe
1095 Hamilton St., Yaletown
604-688-8078

C Restaurant
2-1600 Howe St., Downtown
604-681-1164

Cioppino’s/Enoteca
(combined)
1129 Hamilton St., Yaletown
604-688-7466

In a year that saw a record number of restaurants open across the Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island and the Okanagan Valley, several veteran dining rooms continued to claim outright excellence. Each is a carefully crafted collaboration of exemplary kitchen and service staffs, first-rate suppliers and growers, and emancipated owners nurturing substantial investments. In an industry that places demands like no other, these rooms tirelessly provide our finest culinary experiences. David Hawksworth, the quiet and intense chef who has pushed West (Gold) to the forefront of the province’s culinary landscape, “never stands still in the kitchen,” as one judge said. “The service is welcoming and the food makes you want to stay a while. A long while.”

Another judge found the tasting menus “hiccup free,” noting seamless service that amps up for serious eaters and wine drinkers, while staying relaxed for those less sure. West epitomizes the best of the West Coast food experience, as Hawksworth elevates the simple to the sublime. Another critic agreed that Hawksworth did precisely that in canon of a lamb with garlic gnocchi and twice-cooked chicken that “sings from the rafters.” Lumière (Silver) remains a guiding light, said one judge, praising the ubiquitous Rob Feenie’s relentless energy in the kitchen, hosting visiting luminaries such as chef Alain Passard, and going on tour himself. A management shake-up saw the arrival of Sebastien Le Goff, who tightened the reins and lent his broad wine knowledge to the staff. Proprietors Feenie and David and Manjy Sidoo remain committed to a superlative dining experience. Blue Water Cafe emerged to claim Bronze, based partly on chef Frank Pabst’s new “Unsung Heroes” menu, which celebrates under-utilized fish such as mackerel and long-line ling cod. But the award also recognizes “rigorous discipline with new flair from the kitchens—it’s a joy to see a restaurant of this size perform at such a high level.” One judge said, “All hail Jack [Evrensel—who also owns West] for consistent excellence.”


C Restaurant (who also won gold in the Best Seafood category) notched Honourable Mention, as much for delicious, unfettered seafood on the brink of the Pacific as for “cooking the courage of its convictions”—a reference to its leadership on sustainability issues. Cioppino’s and Enoteca also won Honourable Mention for inspired dishes that included, as one judge described, “a confetti of Alba truffles over Jerusalem artichoke soup that made me cry.”

http://www.vanmag.com/restaurants/07may/Restaurantawards2.shtml

Best New Fine Dining: Gastropod

CATEGORY WINNERS:

Gastropod
1938 W. Fourth Ave., Kitsilano
604-730-5579

Rare
1355 Hornby St., Downtown
604-669-1256

La Régalade Côté Mer
5775 Marine Dr.,
West Vancouver
604-921-9701

FigMint
500 W. 12th Ave.,
Fairview
604-875-3312

Beyond
1015 Burrard St., Downtown
604-684-3474

Angus Ang’s new Fourth Avenue sparkler, Gastropod, a deliberately minimalist but surprisingly warm room (see Best Design, page 76), wins Gold for incorporating molecular cooking concepts (duck sous vide, oysters with horseradish “snow” and foie gras “bon bons”) that accentuate the inherent qualities of the food rather than playing science project. Although a slightly skittish front-of-house staff could blossom with a more relaxed approach, the end result forsakes Vancouver’s now almost predictable Asian-influenced West Coast theme for a contemporary European approach. At Rare (Silver), chef Brian Fowke’s foray into contemporary fine dining, our judges saw a new idea, well executed in this graceful Hornby Street room. They highlighted the truffled cauliflower soup, Fraser Valley pork served three ways, and surprisingly delicate desserts. West Vancouver’s La Régalade Côté Mer (Bronze) saw rich, hearty refinement in dishes of lobster shepherd’s pie in a bisque-like sauce. At FigMint (Honourable Mention), neatly connected, contemporary rooms feature Lee Humphries’ tight execution of steak tartare and saffron-braised veal cheeks—great value, with imaginative mixed drinks. At Beyond, (Honourable Mention) a wholesale renovation sees an excellent bar menu, but some inconsistencies in the main courses.

http://www.vanmag.com/restaurants/07may/Restaurantawards4.shtml

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Best New Informal: Salt Tasting Room

CATEGORY WINNERS:

Salt Tasting Room
45 Blood Alley, Gastown
604-633-1912

La Buca
4025 MacDonald St., Arbutus Ridge
604-730-6988

Kingyo Izakaya
871 Denman St.,
West End
604-608-1677

Crave
3941 Main St.,
South Main
604-872-3663

Sanafir
1026 Granville St., Downtown
604-678-1049

“A brilliant concept that delivers,” said one judge of Salt (Gold), a restaurant with no chef or kitchen, tucked away down Blood Alley in Gastown. “I wish I’d thought of it first,” commented another, “but it took the mad genius of [proprietor] Sean Heather to pull together Salt’s blackboard menus of high-grade charcuterie, cheeses, condiments and wine.” The Saint Andre triple-cream brie with Similkameen honeycomb is a carnal experience; so too the piccalilli with Lincolnshire Poacher cheese and the sopprasata. It’s an indoor picnic, in an edgy, hip room that’s redefined the modern restaurant. La Buca (“The Hole”—Silver), which opened late in the year, is Parkside’s Andrey Durbach and Chris Stewart’s richly sauced little room that sees genuine and generous cooking in a restaurant-starved gulch. Go for wonderfully deep pastas, and a cerebral pannacotta which, in its myriad incarnations, is a light and creamy delight. The West End’s Kingyo (Bronze) fuels the city’s craze for izakaya, but in a well-executed room set apart from the sleek and spare or the kitsch of other Japanese pubs. Notable dishes include succulent tempura prawn balls, yuzu jalapeno pasta, cubed Kobe beef and almond tofu—a dessert that’s a perfect balancing act between firm and creamy. Crave (Honourable Mention) saw Wayne Martin leave the Four Seasons to open a neighbourhood boite that redefines the genre one rigatoni at a time with short-rib poutine, barbecued ribs and great black cod. Sanafir (Honourable Mention) is a room of gauzy magic with trios of North African-, Asian- and Indian-inspired small plates that are “as flavoursome,” commented one judge, “as the waitstaff.”

http://www.vanmag.com/restaurants/07may/Restaurantawards5.shtml

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Results from our 18th Annual Restaurant Awards Competition

Welcome to the 18th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, the largest and most authoritatively empanelled poll of its kind in North America. This year's awards saw the addition of four new award categories: dim sum, service, cheap eats, Victoria and resort dining. There were also a number of new judges added this year. We were honoured to welcome emerging food writers and experts to this year's jury, while thanking others who have contributed considerable time and experise in the past. This year, specialized judging teams swept the city and the province, recognizing excellence in food and wine, sustainability, service and decor categories.

Complete list is at:
http://www.vanmag.com/restaurants/restaurantawards07.shtml

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